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Friday, June 29, 2012

Italy, III - Florence

***Due to an Internet outage my pictures for the second leg of the trip, Cinque Terre, were deleted. I will need to find a faster Internet connection to reupload them and write the post.***

Dates: Monday, June 11th to Thursday, June 14th
Hotel: Hotel Orchidea, Borgo degli Albizi 11, Florence 50122 // http://hotelorchideaflorence.it/
Visits:
Piazza della Repubblica --- It is overwhelming how much history is in every place in Italy. Here is just one example. This beautiful square has been everything from the center of the Roman city to a ghetto to a marketplace.
I Bike Florence --- http://www.ibikeflorence.com/ /// We took this half-day tour shortly after arriving and it was sa great way to see the city, learn about the architecture, and understand the history. It also showed us many neighborhoods we later ended up exploring which we were not aware of in the first place.
Bistecca alla Fiorentina --- A large slab of a specific breed of cow, cooked rare, and placed in front of you. Picture below. Ridiculousness.
Ponte Vecchio --- A bridge spanning the Arno, it is part of the Vasari corridor (which was built for the Medicis) leading to the Palazzo Pitti. Butchers used to sell here, until the Medici's didn't like the smell and allowed gold merchants to move in instead.
Vasari Corridor --- This passage connects the Palazzo Vecchio with the Palazzo Pitti and was used by the Medicis. Fascinating stuff as to why.
Duomo, Baptistry and Campanile --- While we did not go up in the Campanile or go in the Basilica we did see the Baptistry and Duomo (atop the Basilica). From the walk up to the top of the Duomo you could see the inside of the Basilica, and of course from the top of the Duomo you could see grand views of Florence. J pushed us to see the Baptistry, which was actually way more amazing than I thought. So thankful we went!
Santo Spirito --- A neighborhood and a basilica. The basilica has 38 side chapels as well as Michelangelo's Crucifix. 
Gallerie dell'Accademia --- Home of The David, as well as a music museum and many other pieces of art, including many, many beautiful pieces of sculpture. The sculpture just blew me away. We bought advance tickets. The Accademia did not hold us to our scheduled time and we went much earlier, but the reserved tickets are so suggested. The line was insane.
Uffizi --- Unlike the Accademia, the Uffizi sticks to its guns with the reservation times. We actually stood in the normal line since we were there so early. We entered that way (and it is cheaper to do that than pay for the reserve tickets. The Uffizi is (I'm going to use this word again) overwhelming. Several of the galleries were closed and it was almost a relief! So many beautiful famous works of art, so many beautiful not-so-famous works of art. I need some wine.
Piazza Michelangelo --- South of the Arno and just east of Florence's city center. This elevated view offers wonders looking out over the city. There is also a copy of The David up there.
Piazza della Signoria ---  The third David can be found here. The political city center. It was also beyond incredibly windy every time we walked through here. The Palazzo Vecchio is here as well as the entrance to the Uffizi.
Note: Palazzo Pitti and Gardens --- This was on our wishlist for Florence. We ended up trying to go just to see the gardens but they were closing. Many of the museums and institutions have a "close at sunset" rule which is quite up to interpretation.
Food:
Caffe La Posta --- On the short via de' Lamberti --- A quick lunch here was fantastic before our bike ride. It was located on the other end of the short street on which I Bike Florence was located: Via de'Lamberti.
Osteria del Caffe Italiano --- Via Isola delle Stinche 11/13r, Florence, Italy --- Pictures of this dinner are below. The melon and prosciutto was amazingly sweet and salty. My mom had this cut of beef with these pearl onions and balsamic vinegar reduction that I would have eaten (even in my mostly veggie diet) and J had, of course, the bistecca alla fiorentina. 
Caffe Dominco (SW corner of Piazza della Repubblica) --- I am having trouble finding further information on this place. I do not see it on the Google map where it should be. This place had the best pastries and espresso and was affordable, affordable, affordable!
Gustopanino --- Via de' Michelozzi 13 / r, , Florence, Italy --- You would land in this little eatery if you tripped coming down the steps of the church in Santo Spirito (mentioned above). A great, quick lunch place.
Gelateria de Neri --- via dei Neri 26, Florence 50122 --- Fantastic gelato place - OMGosh! A taste of their flavors: Mexican chocolate, pistachio and pepper; ricotta and fig; Amaretto and peach (so good!)
Bordino Trattoria --- Via Stracciatella n°9R, Florence --- While we did not buy it there, the bistecca alla fiorentina looked beyond wonderful! One of our favorite places. The dessert bar was just not fair.
Caffe Pasticceria La Loggia Deglia Albizi --- Borgo degli Albizi 99r --- Everything in here looks scrumptious! We stopped by here after we checked in to our hotel to grab three mini cannolis. The staff was off putting and a little rude. We decided to give it a shot again and also had breakfast here one day. Same service. Beautiful food, but did not enjoy the attitude. We enjoyed the smaller, happier Cucciolo more (see below).
Ino Firenze ---
7r via de' Georgofili, Florence, Italy --- Holy. Cow. We went here after the Uffizi and their menu is extensive. I had a saffron pecorino sandwich with other stuff on it. But it was mostly made out of fun. I loved it and wish we could have eaten here again! A glass of wine is free with a sandwich. I'm telling you: fun. 
Trattoria La Casalinga --- Via Michelozzi 9r, 50125 Florence, Italy --- A locals place that is, once again, within sight of the Santo Spirito. Dinner was the most interesting of the places we ate in Florence (probably due to translation errors). The service was fantastic, as was the  blueberry ricotta torte cheesecake type wonderfulness. This is also where we met some students studying Italian (one from Brazil and the other from Holland) who introduced us to Cantucci and Vin Santo, which we would later order in Tuscany. Cantucci is a smaller biscotti type cookie that is served with a shot-sized portion of Vin Santo, a dessert wine. Dipping is allowed and tasty.
Bar Pasticceria Cucciolo --- Via del Corso 25r, Florence, Italy --- We went here on our last morning in Florence before our train ride to Tuscany. Worth it! The people were beyond nice, the espresso: so good J had two. I even ordered one of their pizzas (on top of my pastry) for breakfast. Smiles and good feelings here!


I bike Florence!
J is ready to go!
My mom made a great student. She was pointing out architectural details the rest of the trip!
Bistecca alla Fiorentina. It doesn't even look real. It also comes with potatoes, greens, and beans.
Here's my mom's fantastic red meat, onions, balsamic dinner. Seriously would have ordered it if I could have ordered two meals.
From the top of the Duomo, overlooking Florence.
My beautiful mama.
More Duomo pics.
Duomo!
The steps of Santo Spirito.
Here you can see the whole basilica, the sky so blue, and my mom striking one for the camera.
This is the view from the Piazza Michelangelo. You can see the Duomo and kind of make out the Arno.
A quiet Florentine street in the afternoon heat.
Once more from the Piazza Michelangelo.
Looking out over the Arno at dusk.
Mom at the Ponte Vecchio
Here we are as well.
Looking towards the Ponte Vecchio, across the Arno, I noticed this graffiti on one of the other bridges. I loved it.

Carousel in the Piazza della Repubblica.
Street art.
A few hours later we passed by again...
Many of the one way/do not enter signs had a twist. This one is being carried off.
This one is being sawed through.
Behind the monastery of Santa Croce is the Sculo del Cuoio (leather school). This is a picture from behind the church walking towards the leather school. Just a few steps from the bustling square and market is a serene reprieve and people practicing a craft that has been taught there for hundreds of years.
Sunset over the Arno again.

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