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Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Italy, II - Cinque Terre (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso

Dates: Saturday, June 9th to Monday, June 11th

Hotel: Hotel Ca Dei Duxi, Via Colombo 36, Riomaggiore // http://www.duxi.it/en/

Visits:
Cinque Terre Card for the Walk + Train --- While technically not a visit, it is imperative to nab one of these cards. We bought ours in La Spezia before taking the train to Riomaggiore. It allows you unlimited access to the train and the Cinque Terre hikes for as many days as the pass bought. Due to the terrible flooding late last year, many of the easier hikes are closed and many of the towns are still in some stage of recovery.
Monterosso al Mare --- We started our day in the northern-most Cinque Terre city and grabbed a light breakfast of macchiatos and croissants. They were working on repairing the design that was on the walkway before the floods when we were in the city center. There is an old and new city, and the tourism also heavily involves the beach here. We arrived so early that the crowds had not yet started and the city and walk were peaceful.
Vernazza --- In Vernazza we hiked a little of the Cinque Terre trail in both directions out of the town to grab great views from either side. The damage from the floods was noticeably the worst here with the main street was still under great repair. We still enjoyed watching the waves crash up west of the piazza and also enjoyed focaccia, which is a local specialty.

Corniglia --- Another local specialty, pesto (of the basil-y goodness), was sampled here in the form of pesto lasagna. However that was not before we had earned our lunch by climbing the 380(ish) stairs to the town. We also earned a beautiful view at teh overlook on the west end of town. To our fun surprise there was a gentleman I can only describe as a Zen flutist who serenaded us for a few Euros. He is traveling around Italy and when we compared the coast of the Cinque Terre to the Kalalau Trail in Hawaii he brightened even more as he had lived there as well!

Manarola --- Another local specialty was sampled here (so many local specialties!) This is the one I was on the hunt for: Sciachetra. (Sounds like Sha-chet'-tra.) Sciachetra is a sweet dessert wine served in a small glass that is worth every penny. The gelato shop we visited (listed below) was one of my favorites of the whole trip. We each bought fruit flavors for the hot afternoon and I went back and bought the double dark chocolate too. Here we also hiked up the Cinque Terre trail a bit in the northerly direction as well as explored the area around the harbor where there were many swimmers and sun bathers.
Via dell'Amore --- This is the southmost and easiest section of the Cinque Terre between Manarola and Riomaggiore. Instead of taking the train between the towns we walked along this gorgeous little coastal hike. We even ventured down some stairs that were cut into the rock, met a fun traveler, and a surprise wave. It was a lovely stroll to mark the end of our city exploring.

Riomaggiore --- Riomaggiore is where we stayed and where we ate both the night we arrived and the night after our exploration of the Cinque Terre. It is also where we tried both the fantastic, fantastic wine, aptly named Cinque Terre, as well as limoncello. Once again, both local specialties. ;) Walking over to the harborside was worth it as there are little restaurants, beautiful doors, and fun to watch the fisherman.

Food:

Bar Centrale --- Piazza Garibaldi 9, Monterosso Al Mare --- Our quiet little breakfast spot where we chose to fuel for the day and enjoy the calm of a relatively early morning.

Bar Burgus/Burgess --- Piazza Marconi 4, Vernazza --- This little place is where we decided to try focaccia to hold us over. It is smaller with a glass case displaying both their snacks as well as artifacts. It was a great place to rest in the shade and down a tasty snack.
Caffe Matteo --- Via Fieschi 157, Corniglia --- Pesto lasagna (a gigantic, heaping portion), tasty olives, and a great snack sandwich. We sat outside on the shared terrace and enjoyed fresh, cool water from the fountain.

Cinque Terre Gelateria --- Via Antonio Discovolo 248, Manarola --- One of my favorite gelato places in Italy. As I stated above we enjoyed their fruity flavors in the heat and I loved it so much that I went back to try their decidedly dark chocolate gelato.

Trattoria Locando il Porticciolo --- Via Renato Birolli 92, Manarola --- We stopped in here for two glasses of Sciachetra por favore. It was everything I had hoped for and I wish I could have had another glass.

La Lampara --- Via Mal Borghetto 8, Riomaggiore --- Great food, great service, and the Cinque Terre wine of awesomeness. One of my favorites of the whole trip. DOC Vendemmia 2011, the label read. The food was not to be eclipsed: pestos, seafood, pasta, tomatoes, desserts, desserts, desserts. We also loved our fantastic, finger-snapping waiter, Gianni.

La Zorza Cafe --- Via Colombo 231 --- J and I stopped in here for after dinner Internet, Montenegro, and Limoncello.

A detail from out initial explorations in Riomaggiore upon arrival.

Riomaggiore as the fog rolled in from the mountains during the evening time.

Riomaggiore, looking our towards the water.

These yellow flowers were everywhere: they grew, were used for decoration, and made the whole place so bright!

One of the stairways down to the water.

One of the specialties of the area: lemons (used for the wonderfully sweet and tart limoncello).

Wine, oil, honey, lemons...Monterosso!

Welcome, indeed!

Some laundry out to dry in Vernazza.

My mom on the steps of the building near the harbor in Vernazza, looking out to the ocean and the Cinque Terre coast.

More of the walk along the Vernazza coast from the piazza.

Two markers denoting the difficult branch of the Cinque Terre trail.

Tile detail outside a home. This was just on an outcropping rock.

Taking a break in the shade of a doorway.

This brilliant blue (and that bold, bright yellow) created such a vividly colorful effect everywhere.

And there is that bold, bright yellow!

Overlooking Vernazza from the Cinque Terre trail heading out towards Monterosso.

The same view and the dirt trail can be seen.

The famous steps from the train station to Corniglia.

In Corniglia J found his little Fiat next to a Subaru. What?!

This is from the overlook in Corniglia which one can arrive at by walking through the main street of town to the west. It is said you can see all of the cities in the Cinque Terre from here. J and and I are looking towards Manarola and Riomaggiore (south).

This is looking out towards Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare (north).

Our Zen flutist.

My mom is now resting in the doorway. :)

The cool water in the shared square where we ate our lunch.

Sweet, sweet vines. This was taken in Manarola where they grow on the steep hills right outside of town.

My mom showing off the beauty of Manarola.

Manarola.

J and I stopping at the church at the height of the town. It's time for gelato.

More of the flora.

A different view of Manarola from the trail.

Gorgeous, golden, Straichetra.

Salute! Cin Cin!

Graffiti on the Via dell'Amore.

J and I decided to take the stairs off of the Via dell'Amore that were cut into the rock down to the water's edge.

J and I at the water.

This picture was timed perfectly as in just a moment I am about to be rudely splashed all over my feet and bottom of my dress. :)

The start to the Via dell'Amore on the Riomaggiore side. I love the locks that are locked to the hearts on the top. I also think J's pose is pretty great too.

A door along the harbor of Riomaggiore.

Our last night in Riomaggiore, once again at La Lamapara. This was our great waiter, Gianni.

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Italy, IV - San Gimignano (Tuscany)

Dates: Thursday, June 14th to Saturday, June 16th

Hotel: Hotel L'Antico Pozzo, Via San Matteo 87, San Gimignano, 53037 // http://www.anticopozzo.com/en/
Visits:

Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta --- The church in the center of town, it includes images from the new and old testament along the sides of the interior walls, the beautiful example of the stars in the heavens patterned on the ceiling, as well as a chapel to the town's popular Saint Fina.

Palazzo Comunale --- This includes a gallery, some history, and a tower one may climb which offers a stunning view of the city center and the surrounding Tuscan countryside.

San Gimignano 1300 --- This museum touts a full model of San Gimignano as it would have looked in 1300...including the 72 towers it once had (today it only has 15, I believe). Besides the miniature it comes with quite the history lesson about the people of the time period and life in the city and in the country. They also explain how it was constructed and the future projects on which they are working.

Museo del Vino --- More of just a wine bar, this place does have a little display on the history of making of the region's Vernaccia wine. We became experts, having tried Vernaccia and sparkling Vernaccia at diVinorum already, we tried the Vernaccia Riserva (fabulous!) that was aged longer in oak barrels. J also tried one that was not aged as long. The sparking the Riserva were best!

The Gates, The Wells, and The Fountains --- We found out about these from the San Gimignano 1300 display. We walked to the different gate entrances around the town. The two wells (we had only known of one) as well as to the fountains outside of the city walls (which are like a spring where water can be obtained).
Note: Ferie del Messi --- There is an annual medieval festival, Ferie del Messi, that takes place in June every year. Of all the weekends it was coming up while we were there! We left early on Saturday for Rome, unfortunately. We wish we could have stayed!

Food:

dal Bertelli --- Via Capassi 30, Italy --- An awesome little place on the side street, right around the corner from our hotel. The offering was simple. Sandwiches with bread, your choice of two salamis, and pecorino cheese. Wine as well. Run by a gentleman who has his family ties with the town (check out the family tree and pictures on the wall inside his shop) you can later see sitting out on Via San Matteo in the afternoons. The food certainly kept us going!

Gelateria di Piazza --- Piazza della Cisterna 4, San Gimignano 53037 --- Do it!!! This place was ridiculous. The longest lines at any gelateria in Italy. Grapefruit and sparkling wine, saffron with pine nuts and vanilla, mint. Wait mint? No, not that green-colored, mint-flavored stuff. Creamy white gelato tinted the slightest green with infinite tiny chopped up pieces of mint in every bite. Seriously try the saffron. Try it all. Take my money. This place is continually voted one of the best gelaterias period.

DiVinorum --- Piazza della Cisterna 30, San Gimignano 53037 --- We stopped in for wine and loved the ambiance (a vine was grown up and over the outdoor area to create perfect shade, literally a ceiling!) and people so much that we visited again the next day where we also tried two of their bruschetta: classic tomato and basil as well as the surprising smoked tuna and chive.

Bar Pasticceria Lucia e Maria --- Via San Matteo 55, San Gimignano 53037 --- This is where we watched the Croatia/Italy Euro 2012 match, learned choice Italian phrases, spoke to some hilarious Bavarians, and enjoyed the best Aperol Spritz on the trip and some ice cold Moretti beer alla spina (on tap).

Peruca --- Via Capassi 16, San Gimignano 53037 --- On the same side street right near our hotel lies our favorite restaurant of the town, Peruca. I really need to post some pictures of this place and the dinner. I will have to do that in another edit. Many of the pictures my camera lens was steamed up but the food and restaurant were all exquisite. J and I ordered two dishes to split: the ravioli with pecorino cheese, pears, and saffron cream with pine seeds and the gnocchi with porcini mushrooms and truffle sauce. Mom had the pork steak with roasted potatoes. This is not your normal pork steak. Here I had the cantuccini biscuits with Vin Santo mentioned in my Florence post and mom had this caramel three layer cake that was dense and sweet. /// http://www.peruca.eu/

Le Vecchie Mura --- Via Piandornella 15 --- Originally our plan was to return to Peruca, but during an evening time stroll J and I had stumbled upon a cute little restaurant situated on a Tuscan overlook off the center of the town. We thought that it would be a great place to watch the sunset and eat our last Tuscan dinner. Unfortunately we were never able to make a reservation or communicate with anyone there so we returned the next night. In waiting for it to open we noticed diners on another level of the town below with the same view on more of an overlook. Upon investigation this restaurant was La Vecchie Mura. With a wonderful sunset, Chianti Classico, lasagna, a wild boar dish, cheese and sage ravioli, a lemon tart and berry panna cotta to top it off, we toasted to Tuscany and bid farewell to the day.

J representing Fiorentina on the steps of the Collegiata. While walking up a side street two men started yelling (cheering?) what we understood to be "Grande! Grande!" They were very happy with J's jersey. We think they were Fiorentina fans.