This Makes Me Laugh: Italy, II - Cinque Terre (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso

Dates: Saturday, June 9th to Monday, June 11th

Hotel: Hotel Ca Dei Duxi, Via Colombo 36, Riomaggiore // http://www.duxi.it/en/

Visits:
Cinque Terre Card for the Walk + Train --- While technically not a visit, it is imperative to nab one of these cards. We bought ours in La Spezia before taking the train to Riomaggiore. It allows you unlimited access to the train and the Cinque Terre hikes for as many days as the pass bought. Due to the terrible flooding late last year, many of the easier hikes are closed and many of the towns are still in some stage of recovery.
Monterosso al Mare --- We started our day in the northern-most Cinque Terre city and grabbed a light breakfast of macchiatos and croissants. They were working on repairing the design that was on the walkway before the floods when we were in the city center. There is an old and new city, and the tourism also heavily involves the beach here. We arrived so early that the crowds had not yet started and the city and walk were peaceful.
Vernazza --- In Vernazza we hiked a little of the Cinque Terre trail in both directions out of the town to grab great views from either side. The damage from the floods was noticeably the worst here with the main street was still under great repair. We still enjoyed watching the waves crash up west of the piazza and also enjoyed focaccia, which is a local specialty.

Corniglia --- Another local specialty, pesto (of the basil-y goodness), was sampled here in the form of pesto lasagna. However that was not before we had earned our lunch by climbing the 380(ish) stairs to the town. We also earned a beautiful view at teh overlook on the west end of town. To our fun surprise there was a gentleman I can only describe as a Zen flutist who serenaded us for a few Euros. He is traveling around Italy and when we compared the coast of the Cinque Terre to the Kalalau Trail in Hawaii he brightened even more as he had lived there as well!

Manarola --- Another local specialty was sampled here (so many local specialties!) This is the one I was on the hunt for: Sciachetra. (Sounds like Sha-chet'-tra.) Sciachetra is a sweet dessert wine served in a small glass that is worth every penny. The gelato shop we visited (listed below) was one of my favorites of the whole trip. We each bought fruit flavors for the hot afternoon and I went back and bought the double dark chocolate too. Here we also hiked up the Cinque Terre trail a bit in the northerly direction as well as explored the area around the harbor where there were many swimmers and sun bathers.
Via dell'Amore --- This is the southmost and easiest section of the Cinque Terre between Manarola and Riomaggiore. Instead of taking the train between the towns we walked along this gorgeous little coastal hike. We even ventured down some stairs that were cut into the rock, met a fun traveler, and a surprise wave. It was a lovely stroll to mark the end of our city exploring.

Riomaggiore --- Riomaggiore is where we stayed and where we ate both the night we arrived and the night after our exploration of the Cinque Terre. It is also where we tried both the fantastic, fantastic wine, aptly named Cinque Terre, as well as limoncello. Once again, both local specialties. ;) Walking over to the harborside was worth it as there are little restaurants, beautiful doors, and fun to watch the fisherman.

Food:

Bar Centrale --- Piazza Garibaldi 9, Monterosso Al Mare --- Our quiet little breakfast spot where we chose to fuel for the day and enjoy the calm of a relatively early morning.

Bar Burgus/Burgess --- Piazza Marconi 4, Vernazza --- This little place is where we decided to try focaccia to hold us over. It is smaller with a glass case displaying both their snacks as well as artifacts. It was a great place to rest in the shade and down a tasty snack.
Caffe Matteo --- Via Fieschi 157, Corniglia --- Pesto lasagna (a gigantic, heaping portion), tasty olives, and a great snack sandwich. We sat outside on the shared terrace and enjoyed fresh, cool water from the fountain.

Cinque Terre Gelateria --- Via Antonio Discovolo 248, Manarola --- One of my favorite gelato places in Italy. As I stated above we enjoyed their fruity flavors in the heat and I loved it so much that I went back to try their decidedly dark chocolate gelato.

Trattoria Locando il Porticciolo --- Via Renato Birolli 92, Manarola --- We stopped in here for two glasses of Sciachetra por favore. It was everything I had hoped for and I wish I could have had another glass.

La Lampara --- Via Mal Borghetto 8, Riomaggiore --- Great food, great service, and the Cinque Terre wine of awesomeness. One of my favorites of the whole trip. DOC Vendemmia 2011, the label read. The food was not to be eclipsed: pestos, seafood, pasta, tomatoes, desserts, desserts, desserts. We also loved our fantastic, finger-snapping waiter, Gianni.

La Zorza Cafe --- Via Colombo 231 --- J and I stopped in here for after dinner Internet, Montenegro, and Limoncello.

A detail from out initial explorations in Riomaggiore upon arrival.

Riomaggiore as the fog rolled in from the mountains during the evening time.

Riomaggiore, looking our towards the water.

These yellow flowers were everywhere: they grew, were used for decoration, and made the whole place so bright!

One of the stairways down to the water.

One of the specialties of the area: lemons (used for the wonderfully sweet and tart limoncello).

Wine, oil, honey, lemons...Monterosso!

Welcome, indeed!

Some laundry out to dry in Vernazza.

My mom on the steps of the building near the harbor in Vernazza, looking out to the ocean and the Cinque Terre coast.

More of the walk along the Vernazza coast from the piazza.

Two markers denoting the difficult branch of the Cinque Terre trail.

Tile detail outside a home. This was just on an outcropping rock.

Taking a break in the shade of a doorway.

This brilliant blue (and that bold, bright yellow) created such a vividly colorful effect everywhere.

And there is that bold, bright yellow!

Overlooking Vernazza from the Cinque Terre trail heading out towards Monterosso.

The same view and the dirt trail can be seen.

The famous steps from the train station to Corniglia.

In Corniglia J found his little Fiat next to a Subaru. What?!

This is from the overlook in Corniglia which one can arrive at by walking through the main street of town to the west. It is said you can see all of the cities in the Cinque Terre from here. J and and I are looking towards Manarola and Riomaggiore (south).

This is looking out towards Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare (north).

Our Zen flutist.

My mom is now resting in the doorway. :)

The cool water in the shared square where we ate our lunch.

Sweet, sweet vines. This was taken in Manarola where they grow on the steep hills right outside of town.

My mom showing off the beauty of Manarola.

Manarola.

J and I stopping at the church at the height of the town. It's time for gelato.

More of the flora.

A different view of Manarola from the trail.

Gorgeous, golden, Straichetra.

Salute! Cin Cin!

Graffiti on the Via dell'Amore.

J and I decided to take the stairs off of the Via dell'Amore that were cut into the rock down to the water's edge.

J and I at the water.

This picture was timed perfectly as in just a moment I am about to be rudely splashed all over my feet and bottom of my dress. :)

The start to the Via dell'Amore on the Riomaggiore side. I love the locks that are locked to the hearts on the top. I also think J's pose is pretty great too.