Italy, IV - San Gimignano (Tuscany)

Dates: Thursday, June 14th to Saturday, June 16th

Hotel: Hotel L'Antico Pozzo, Via San Matteo 87, San Gimignano, 53037 // http://www.anticopozzo.com/en/
Visits: 

Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta --- The church in the center of town, it includes images from the new and old testament along the sides of the interior walls, the beautiful example of the stars in the heavens patterned on the ceiling, as well as a chapel to the town's popular Saint Fina.

Palazzo Comunale --- This includes a gallery, some history, and a tower one may climb which offers a stunning view of the city center and the surrounding Tuscan countryside.

San Gimignano 1300 --- This museum touts a full model of San Gimignano as it would have looked in 1300...including the 72 towers it once had (today it only has 15, I believe). Besides the miniature it comes with quite the history lesson about the people of the time period and life in the city and in the country. They also explain how it was constructed and the future projects on which they are working.

Museo del Vino --- More of just a wine bar, this place does have a little display on the history of making of the region's Vernaccia wine. We became experts, having tried Vernaccia and sparkling Vernaccia at diVinorum already, we tried the Vernaccia Riserva (fabulous!) that was aged longer in oak barrels. J also tried one that was not aged as long. The sparking the Riserva were best!

The Gates, The Wells, and The Fountains --- We found out about these from the San Gimignano 1300 display. We walked to the different gate entrances around the town. The two wells (we had only known of one) as well as to the fountains outside of the city walls (which are like a spring where water can be obtained).
Note: Ferie del Messi --- There is an annual medieval festival, Ferie del Messi, that takes place in June every year. Of all the weekends it was coming up while we were there! We left early on Saturday for Rome, unfortunately. We wish we could have stayed!

Food:

dal Bertelli --- Via Capassi 30, Italy --- An awesome little place on the side street, right around the corner from our hotel. The offering was simple. Sandwiches with bread, your choice of two salamis, and pecorino cheese. Wine as well. Run by a gentleman who has his family ties with the town (check out the family tree and pictures on the wall inside his shop) you can later see sitting out on Via San Matteo in the afternoons. The food certainly kept us going!

Gelateria di Piazza --- Piazza della Cisterna 4, San Gimignano 53037 --- Do it!!! This place was ridiculous. The longest lines at any gelateria in Italy. Grapefruit and sparkling wine, saffron with pine nuts and vanilla, mint. Wait mint? No, not that green-colored, mint-flavored stuff. Creamy white gelato tinted the slightest green with infinite tiny chopped up pieces of mint in every bite. Seriously try the saffron. Try it all. Take my money. This place is continually voted one of the best gelaterias period.

DiVinorum --- Piazza della Cisterna 30, San Gimignano 53037 --- We stopped in for wine and loved the ambiance (a vine was grown up and over the outdoor area to create perfect shade, literally a ceiling!) and people so much that we visited again the next day where we also tried two of their bruschetta: classic tomato and basil as well as the surprising smoked tuna and chive.

Bar Pasticceria Lucia e Maria --- Via San Matteo 55, San Gimignano 53037 --- This is where we watched the Croatia/Italy Euro 2012 match, learned choice Italian phrases, spoke to some hilarious Bavarians, and enjoyed the best Aperol Spritz on the trip and some ice cold Moretti beer alla spina (on tap).

Peruca --- Via Capassi 16, San Gimignano 53037 --- On the same side street right near our hotel lies our favorite restaurant of the town, Peruca. I really need to post some pictures of this place and the dinner. I will have to do that in another edit. Many of the pictures my camera lens was steamed up but the food and restaurant were all exquisite. J and I ordered two dishes to split: the ravioli with pecorino cheese, pears, and saffron cream with pine seeds and the gnocchi with porcini mushrooms and truffle sauce. Mom had the pork steak with roasted potatoes. This is not your normal pork steak. Here I had the cantuccini biscuits with Vin Santo  mentioned in my Florence post and mom had this caramel three layer cake that was dense and sweet.   /// http://www.peruca.eu/

Le Vecchie Mura --- Via Piandornella 15 --- Originally our plan was to return to Peruca, but during an evening time stroll J and I had stumbled upon a cute little restaurant situated on a Tuscan overlook off the center of the town. We thought that it would be a great place to watch the sunset and eat our last Tuscan dinner. Unfortunately we were never able to make a reservation or communicate with anyone there so we returned the next night. In waiting for it to open we noticed diners on another level of the town below with the same view on more of an overlook. Upon investigation this restaurant was La Vecchie Mura. With a wonderful sunset, Chianti Classico, lasagna, a wild boar dish, cheese and sage ravioli, a lemon tart and berry panna cotta to top it off, we toasted to Tuscany and bid farewell to the day.

J representing Fiorentina on the steps of the Collegiata. While walking up a side street two men started yelling (cheering?) what we understood to be "Grande! Grande!" They were very happy with J's jersey. We think they were Fiorentina fans.

Mint. Pink grapefruit and sparkling wine. Saffron, vanilla and pine nut. Gelato.

DiVinorum and it's vine ceiling.

J and chianti.

My mom and Tuscany. If it wasn't for her we probably would not have had this leg of the trip and we are so thankful we did!

A view of the Tuscan countryside from a steep walk back to the city center.

One of the surviving towers of the medieval town.

A law enforcement grade Subaru. J inspects it and finds it has a plug...maybe an electric/hybrid thingy? We love all the cars in Europe.

Cheering on Italy, making friends, and imbibing good drinks.

The passionate Italian fans glued to the game.

The Piazza della Cisterna at night.

Shadow art. ;)

About to explore the Collegiata and Palazzo Communale.

J and my mom. She is wearing her Burano lace scarf which pairs perfectly with her dress. :)

San Gimignano from the tower. The Piazza della Cisterna is towards the bottom right.

My mom and her Tuscany.

On top of the world!

An absolutely gorgeous, perfect day.

A better view of the Piazza della Cisterna from the tower.

Just part of our climb to the top of Tuscany.

Framed. J being academic? Stoic? Just J being J?

I'm just being cute. :P

Tuscan photo-op.

My gorgeous mom and her beautiful dress again!

Sweet, sweet grapes!

Vernaccia at the wine museum.

Our view of the sunset during our last Tuscan dinner.

Once again the sunset.

Dusk on our street (view from the hotel room window)

Why would we want to leave?! Oh yeah...Rome!

Italy, III - Florence

***Due to an Internet outage my pictures for the second leg of the trip, Cinque Terre, were deleted. I will need to find a faster Internet connection to reupload them and write the post.***

Dates: Monday, June 11th to Thursday, June 14th
Hotel: Hotel Orchidea, Borgo degli Albizi 11, Florence 50122 // http://hotelorchideaflorence.it/
Visits:
Piazza della Repubblica --- It is overwhelming how much history is in every place in Italy. Here is just one example. This beautiful square has been everything from the center of the Roman city to a ghetto to a marketplace.
I Bike Florence --- http://www.ibikeflorence.com/ /// We took this half-day tour shortly after arriving and it was sa great way to see the city, learn about the architecture, and understand the history. It also showed us many neighborhoods we later ended up exploring which we were not aware of in the first place.
Bistecca alla Fiorentina --- A large slab of a specific breed of cow, cooked rare, and placed in front of you. Picture below. Ridiculousness.
Ponte Vecchio --- A bridge spanning the Arno, it is part of the Vasari corridor (which was built for the Medicis) leading to the Palazzo Pitti. Butchers used to sell here, until the Medici's didn't like the smell and allowed gold merchants to move in instead.
Vasari Corridor --- This passage connects the Palazzo Vecchio with the Palazzo Pitti and was used by the Medicis. Fascinating stuff as to why.
Duomo, Baptistry and Campanile --- While we did not go up in the Campanile or go in the Basilica we did see the Baptistry and Duomo (atop the Basilica). From the walk up to the top of the Duomo you could see the inside of the Basilica, and of course from the top of the Duomo you could see grand views of Florence. J pushed us to see the Baptistry, which was actually way more amazing than I thought. So thankful we went!
Santo Spirito --- A neighborhood and a basilica. The basilica has 38 side chapels as well as Michelangelo's Crucifix. 
Gallerie dell'Accademia --- Home of The David, as well as a music museum and many other pieces of art, including many, many beautiful pieces of sculpture. The sculpture just blew me away. We bought advance tickets. The Accademia did not hold us to our scheduled time and we went much earlier, but the reserved tickets are so suggested. The line was insane.
Uffizi --- Unlike the Accademia, the Uffizi sticks to its guns with the reservation times. We actually stood in the normal line since we were there so early. We entered that way (and it is cheaper to do that than pay for the reserve tickets. The Uffizi is (I'm going to use this word again) overwhelming. Several of the galleries were closed and it was almost a relief! So many beautiful famous works of art, so many beautiful not-so-famous works of art. I need some wine.
Piazza Michelangelo --- South of the Arno and just east of Florence's city center. This elevated view offers wonders looking out over the city. There is also a copy of The David up there.
Piazza della Signoria ---  The third David can be found here. The political city center. It was also beyond incredibly windy every time we walked through here. The Palazzo Vecchio is here as well as the entrance to the Uffizi.
Note: Palazzo Pitti and Gardens --- This was on our wishlist for Florence. We ended up trying to go just to see the gardens but they were closing. Many of the museums and institutions have a "close at sunset" rule which is quite up to interpretation.
Food:
Caffe La Posta --- On the short via de' Lamberti --- A quick lunch here was fantastic before our bike ride. It was located on the other end of the short street on which I Bike Florence was located: Via de'Lamberti.
Osteria del Caffe Italiano --- Via Isola delle Stinche 11/13r, Florence, Italy --- Pictures of this dinner are below. The melon and prosciutto was amazingly sweet and salty. My mom had this cut of beef with these pearl onions and balsamic vinegar reduction that I would have eaten (even in my mostly veggie diet) and J had, of course, the bistecca alla fiorentina. 
Caffe Dominco (SW corner of Piazza della Repubblica) --- I am having trouble finding further information on this place. I do not see it on the Google map where it should be. This place had the best pastries and espresso and was affordable, affordable, affordable!

Gustopanino --- Via de' Michelozzi 13 / r, , Florence, Italy --- You would land in this little eatery if you tripped coming down the steps of the church in Santo Spirito (mentioned above). A great, quick lunch place.
Gelateria de Neri --- via dei Neri 26, Florence 50122 --- Fantastic gelato place - OMGosh! A taste of their flavors: Mexican chocolate, pistachio and pepper; ricotta and fig; Amaretto and peach (so good!)
Bordino Trattoria --- Via Stracciatella n°9R, Florence --- While we did not buy it there, the bistecca alla fiorentina looked beyond wonderful! One of our favorite places. The dessert bar was just not fair.
Caffe Pasticceria La Loggia Deglia Albizi --- Borgo degli Albizi 99r --- Everything in here looks scrumptious! We stopped by here after we checked in to our hotel to grab three mini cannolis. The staff was off putting and a little rude. We decided to give it a shot again and also had breakfast here one day. Same service. Beautiful food, but did not enjoy the attitude. We enjoyed the smaller, happier Cucciolo more (see below).
Ino Firenze ---

7r via de' Georgofili, Florence, Italy --- Holy. Cow. We went here after the Uffizi and their menu is extensive. I had a saffron pecorino sandwich with other stuff on it. But it was mostly made out of fun. I loved it and wish we could have eaten here again! A glass of wine is free with a sandwich. I'm telling you: fun. 

Trattoria La Casalinga --- Via Michelozzi 9r, 50125 Florence, Italy --- A locals place that is, once again, within sight of the Santo Spirito. Dinner was the most interesting of the places we ate in Florence (probably due to translation errors). The service was fantastic, as was the  blueberry ricotta torte cheesecake type wonderfulness. This is also where we met some students studying Italian (one from Brazil and the other from Holland) who introduced us to Cantucci and Vin Santo, which we would later order in Tuscany. Cantucci is a smaller biscotti type cookie that is served with a shot-sized portion of Vin Santo, a dessert wine. Dipping is allowed and tasty.
Bar Pasticceria Cucciolo --- Via del Corso 25r, Florence, Italy --- We went here on our last morning in Florence before our train ride to Tuscany. Worth it! The people were beyond nice, the espresso: so good J had two. I even ordered one of their pizzas (on top of my pastry) for breakfast. Smiles and good feelings here!

I bike Florence!

J is ready to go!

My mom made a great student. She was pointing out architectural details the rest of the trip!

Bistecca alla Fiorentina. It doesn't even look real. It also comes with potatoes, greens, and beans.

Here's my mom's fantastic red meat, onions, balsamic dinner. Seriously would have ordered it if I could have ordered two meals.

From the top of the Duomo, overlooking Florence.

My beautiful mama.

More Duomo pics.

Duomo!

The steps of Santo Spirito.

Here you can see the whole basilica, the sky so blue, and my mom striking one for the camera.

This is the view from the Piazza Michelangelo. You can see the Duomo and kind of make out the Arno.

A quiet Florentine street in the afternoon heat.

Once more from the Piazza Michelangelo.

Looking out over the Arno at dusk.

Mom at the Ponte Vecchio

Here we are as well.

Looking towards the Ponte Vecchio, across the Arno, I noticed this graffiti on one of the other bridges. I loved it.

Carousel in the Piazza della Repubblica.

Street art.

A few hours later we passed by again...

Many of the one way/do not enter signs had a twist. This one is being carried off.

This one is being sawed through.

Behind the monastery of Santa Croce is the Sculo del Cuoio (leather school). This is a picture from behind the church walking towards the leather school. Just a few steps from the bustling square and market is a serene reprieve and people practicing a craft that has been taught there for hundreds of years.

Sunset over the Arno again.