Italy, III - Florence

***Due to an Internet outage my pictures for the second leg of the trip, Cinque Terre, were deleted. I will need to find a faster Internet connection to reupload them and write the post.***

Dates: Monday, June 11th to Thursday, June 14th
Hotel: Hotel Orchidea, Borgo degli Albizi 11, Florence 50122 // http://hotelorchideaflorence.it/
Visits:
Piazza della Repubblica --- It is overwhelming how much history is in every place in Italy. Here is just one example. This beautiful square has been everything from the center of the Roman city to a ghetto to a marketplace.
I Bike Florence --- http://www.ibikeflorence.com/ /// We took this half-day tour shortly after arriving and it was sa great way to see the city, learn about the architecture, and understand the history. It also showed us many neighborhoods we later ended up exploring which we were not aware of in the first place.
Bistecca alla Fiorentina --- A large slab of a specific breed of cow, cooked rare, and placed in front of you. Picture below. Ridiculousness.
Ponte Vecchio --- A bridge spanning the Arno, it is part of the Vasari corridor (which was built for the Medicis) leading to the Palazzo Pitti. Butchers used to sell here, until the Medici's didn't like the smell and allowed gold merchants to move in instead.
Vasari Corridor --- This passage connects the Palazzo Vecchio with the Palazzo Pitti and was used by the Medicis. Fascinating stuff as to why.
Duomo, Baptistry and Campanile --- While we did not go up in the Campanile or go in the Basilica we did see the Baptistry and Duomo (atop the Basilica). From the walk up to the top of the Duomo you could see the inside of the Basilica, and of course from the top of the Duomo you could see grand views of Florence. J pushed us to see the Baptistry, which was actually way more amazing than I thought. So thankful we went!
Santo Spirito --- A neighborhood and a basilica. The basilica has 38 side chapels as well as Michelangelo's Crucifix. 
Gallerie dell'Accademia --- Home of The David, as well as a music museum and many other pieces of art, including many, many beautiful pieces of sculpture. The sculpture just blew me away. We bought advance tickets. The Accademia did not hold us to our scheduled time and we went much earlier, but the reserved tickets are so suggested. The line was insane.
Uffizi --- Unlike the Accademia, the Uffizi sticks to its guns with the reservation times. We actually stood in the normal line since we were there so early. We entered that way (and it is cheaper to do that than pay for the reserve tickets. The Uffizi is (I'm going to use this word again) overwhelming. Several of the galleries were closed and it was almost a relief! So many beautiful famous works of art, so many beautiful not-so-famous works of art. I need some wine.
Piazza Michelangelo --- South of the Arno and just east of Florence's city center. This elevated view offers wonders looking out over the city. There is also a copy of The David up there.
Piazza della Signoria ---  The third David can be found here. The political city center. It was also beyond incredibly windy every time we walked through here. The Palazzo Vecchio is here as well as the entrance to the Uffizi.
Note: Palazzo Pitti and Gardens --- This was on our wishlist for Florence. We ended up trying to go just to see the gardens but they were closing. Many of the museums and institutions have a "close at sunset" rule which is quite up to interpretation.
Food:
Caffe La Posta --- On the short via de' Lamberti --- A quick lunch here was fantastic before our bike ride. It was located on the other end of the short street on which I Bike Florence was located: Via de'Lamberti.
Osteria del Caffe Italiano --- Via Isola delle Stinche 11/13r, Florence, Italy --- Pictures of this dinner are below. The melon and prosciutto was amazingly sweet and salty. My mom had this cut of beef with these pearl onions and balsamic vinegar reduction that I would have eaten (even in my mostly veggie diet) and J had, of course, the bistecca alla fiorentina. 
Caffe Dominco (SW corner of Piazza della Repubblica) --- I am having trouble finding further information on this place. I do not see it on the Google map where it should be. This place had the best pastries and espresso and was affordable, affordable, affordable!

Gustopanino --- Via de' Michelozzi 13 / r, , Florence, Italy --- You would land in this little eatery if you tripped coming down the steps of the church in Santo Spirito (mentioned above). A great, quick lunch place.
Gelateria de Neri --- via dei Neri 26, Florence 50122 --- Fantastic gelato place - OMGosh! A taste of their flavors: Mexican chocolate, pistachio and pepper; ricotta and fig; Amaretto and peach (so good!)
Bordino Trattoria --- Via Stracciatella n°9R, Florence --- While we did not buy it there, the bistecca alla fiorentina looked beyond wonderful! One of our favorite places. The dessert bar was just not fair.
Caffe Pasticceria La Loggia Deglia Albizi --- Borgo degli Albizi 99r --- Everything in here looks scrumptious! We stopped by here after we checked in to our hotel to grab three mini cannolis. The staff was off putting and a little rude. We decided to give it a shot again and also had breakfast here one day. Same service. Beautiful food, but did not enjoy the attitude. We enjoyed the smaller, happier Cucciolo more (see below).
Ino Firenze ---

7r via de' Georgofili, Florence, Italy --- Holy. Cow. We went here after the Uffizi and their menu is extensive. I had a saffron pecorino sandwich with other stuff on it. But it was mostly made out of fun. I loved it and wish we could have eaten here again! A glass of wine is free with a sandwich. I'm telling you: fun. 

Trattoria La Casalinga --- Via Michelozzi 9r, 50125 Florence, Italy --- A locals place that is, once again, within sight of the Santo Spirito. Dinner was the most interesting of the places we ate in Florence (probably due to translation errors). The service was fantastic, as was the  blueberry ricotta torte cheesecake type wonderfulness. This is also where we met some students studying Italian (one from Brazil and the other from Holland) who introduced us to Cantucci and Vin Santo, which we would later order in Tuscany. Cantucci is a smaller biscotti type cookie that is served with a shot-sized portion of Vin Santo, a dessert wine. Dipping is allowed and tasty.
Bar Pasticceria Cucciolo --- Via del Corso 25r, Florence, Italy --- We went here on our last morning in Florence before our train ride to Tuscany. Worth it! The people were beyond nice, the espresso: so good J had two. I even ordered one of their pizzas (on top of my pastry) for breakfast. Smiles and good feelings here!

I bike Florence!

J is ready to go!

My mom made a great student. She was pointing out architectural details the rest of the trip!

Bistecca alla Fiorentina. It doesn't even look real. It also comes with potatoes, greens, and beans.

Here's my mom's fantastic red meat, onions, balsamic dinner. Seriously would have ordered it if I could have ordered two meals.

From the top of the Duomo, overlooking Florence.

My beautiful mama.

More Duomo pics.

Duomo!

The steps of Santo Spirito.

Here you can see the whole basilica, the sky so blue, and my mom striking one for the camera.

This is the view from the Piazza Michelangelo. You can see the Duomo and kind of make out the Arno.

A quiet Florentine street in the afternoon heat.

Once more from the Piazza Michelangelo.

Looking out over the Arno at dusk.

Mom at the Ponte Vecchio

Here we are as well.

Looking towards the Ponte Vecchio, across the Arno, I noticed this graffiti on one of the other bridges. I loved it.

Carousel in the Piazza della Repubblica.

Street art.

A few hours later we passed by again...

Many of the one way/do not enter signs had a twist. This one is being carried off.

This one is being sawed through.

Behind the monastery of Santa Croce is the Sculo del Cuoio (leather school). This is a picture from behind the church walking towards the leather school. Just a few steps from the bustling square and market is a serene reprieve and people practicing a craft that has been taught there for hundreds of years.

Sunset over the Arno again.

Italy, I - Venice and Burano

Dates: Wednesday, June 6th to Saturday, June 9th

Hotel: Ai do Mori, S. Marco 658, Venice, 30124 // hotelaidomori.com

Visits: 

Basilica San Marco --- The most famous of the Venetian churches. Even with the long line it is quick to enter (as well as free) though one does need to pay to have access to most everything else in the Basilica.

Palazzo Ducale --- A gothic-style residence of the Doge in Venice, now a museum. My favorite part was the prisoner's level and the Bridge of Sighs. There is a separate tour that goes behind the scenes of the building, exploring its secret passageways, but we were unable to participate at the time we arrived.  

Burano --- An island of colors, colors, lace, and more colors! Beautiful! 

Venetian Labyrinth Tour --- This is from our Lonely Planet guide and explored the Campos of Venice. We loved it!!

Ponte Rialto --- The oldest bridge crossing the Grand Canal. Very recognizable. Very close to the fresh markets and pescaria (fish market), which is worth a visit if one has time in the morning. 

Note: J wishes we could have gone on the Torre del'Orologio (clock tower) tour. It does sound like it would have been quite interesting.

Food: 

Osteria da Carla --- Corte Contarina, San Marco 1535, Venice --- My mom's pomodoro was fabulous here. J tried a squid ink pasta.

Suco Gelateria --- Walnut and Fig flavor was my favorite.

Marchini Time --- San Marco 4598, Campo San Luca, Venice --- Hands down our favorite breakfast place. We went here every day.

Ostaria al Ponte --- Cannaregio 6378, Calle Larga G Gallina, 30121 Venice --- The three of us stopped here on our Venice Labyrinth tour we were taking courtesy of Lonely Planet. We shared a few small sandwiches, shrimp, and (of course) wine.

Enoiteca Al Prosecco --- S Croce 1503, Campo San Giacomo de l'Orio, 30135 Venice --- We enjoyed some refreshing beverages after finally completely the labyrinth tour! 

Pizza Place (unnamed) --- across from hotel/restaurant Noemi --- This is where we finally found some pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice). Margherita, please!

Trattoria San Zulian --- Sestriere San Marco 523, 30124, Venice (Campo del Guerra) --- We went here after our original option had stopped serving food for the day. The dishes were great, the wine was tasty, and we spent hours laughing and chatting here. We even made two new friends from Austraila (who we would later see again in Riomaggiore (of the Cinque Terre).

Principe --- San Marco 455, Burano --- We visited this establishment for a light lunch and to try a Campari (Jeremy) and Aperol (me) Spritz. THE Venetian thing to do. I enjoyed the Spritz in San Gimignano more. The food was also good (we had a pizza and spaghetti carbonara). The Carbonara was heavier than the Carbonara we would have in Rome.

Enoteca Al Volto --- Calle Cavalli 4081, Venice --- Possibly our favorite dinner place while we were there. I will have to edit this blog and post pictures of the dinner. I had a truffle pasta, my mom had tuna with balsamic glaze drizzled over it, and J had the sea bass with, as he describes it, "awesomeness." This is also were we tried a cafe coretto, which is espresso with grappa. I enjoyed it quite a bit. Grappa is an interesting, strong liquor made from the remains of the wine making process.

 

The canals of Venice!

J enjoying the espresso and pastries.

My mom surveying Venice.

J and I at one of the canals.

One of the many gardened windows.

A statue along the Venetian coast.

Lamp post as the sun sets.

The Grand Canal at night.

J and I stumbled upon a military something in a Piazza San Marco.

A busy morning at the pescaria (fish market).

Dried goods at the market.

Fresh goods at the Venetian market.

The beautiful Burano.

J and I as we arrived in Burano.

Looking down one of the colorfully painted Burano canals.

It's a gorgeous island.

My beautiful mom. :)

Burano lace scarves.

Fresh flowers on a windowsill. I found these colors just like this; I did not arrange it. It made me happy.

J and his purple.

My mom with her favorite color: green.

Me. :)

I really love this guy (and this place!)

Another vibrant street and boats.

Boat detail.

I enjoy the reflection of the pink houses in the water fountain.

J enjoying the cool water.

Pink, pink, pink!

More color in Burano.

My last Burano picture, I promise.

St. Mark's Campanile, Piazza San Marco

Piazza San Marco

Basilica di San Marco.

Moroccan Couscous with Roasted Veggies

I love everything about this dish. 

Honestly. 

I am going to type up this recipe as we made it (based on a recipe we found on a website which was based on a recipe that was seen in a magazine). As my sister or brother might say, it's Recipeception. If we made it again, I'd love to add golden raisins, maybe adding them to the vegetable broth mixture when it is reheated. 

Ingredients: 

You can never have too much

Roughly 2 cups peeled butternut squash, cut into 1/2 inch cubes

2 cups of yello onion, diced large

1.5 cups baby carrots, cut into 1/2 inch pieces

2 zucchini, cut into 3/4 inch pieces

Olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

1.5 cups vegetable broth

2 TBSP butter

1/4 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp saffron threads

1 cup uncooked couscous

Green onion...we love green onion and probably used about five (green part only)

Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
Place the squash, onion, carrots and zucchini on a baking sheet and toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes, turning once with a spatula about midway through.
While the vegetables roast, bring the vegetable broth to a boil in a saucepan. Remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the butter, salt and pepper to taste, cumin, and saffron threads. Cover the pan and steep for 15 minutes.

Cook the couscous.
When veggies are roasted, scrape the vegetables and their juices into a large bowl, and add the couscous.

The tastiness.

Bring the vegetable broth back to a boil, and pour over the couscous mixture all at once.
Cover tightly and allow to stand for 15 minutes.

Add the green onions, toss the couscous and vegetables, and serve.

The chef.